In mountaineering and mountain climbing, there is a prestigious peak-collecting challenge known as the Snow Leopard. To complete it, you must climb all five seven-thousanders of the former Soviet Union: Lenin Peak, Communism Peak, Korzhenevskaya Peak, Khan Tengri and Pobeda Peak. These legendary giants lie in two mountain ranges, the Pamirs and the Tian Shan. Most people begin their journey along the “Snow Leopard trail” with an ascent of Lenin Peak, as it is considered the easiest seven-thousander in the challenge. Its classic route is graded 4A. But it is important to understand that no seven-thousander is easy: even the “easiest” is a serious undertaking that requires responsible preparation.
Lenin Peak was first described in scientific literature in 1871 by the Russian geographer and explorer Alexey Pavlovich Fedchenko, who named it Kaufmann Peak in honour of Konstantin Petrovich von Kaufmann, the Governor-General of Turkestan. With the arrival of the new government, the mountain was renamed Lenin Peak. It is still known worldwide by this name, although in Tajikistan it has officially been called Abu Ali ibn Sina Peak since 2006. In Kyrgyzstan, from where almost all ascents are made, the mountain has retained its Soviet name.
The first ascent was made in 1928 during a Soviet-German expedition by German climbers Karl Wien, Eugen Allwein and Erwin Schneider.
Sixteen different mountaineering routes have been climbed to the summit of Lenin Peak: nine from the south and seven from the north. The classic route approaches from the north via Razdelnaya Peak. This is the route we will take together.
This 22-calendar-day expedition takes place in the Pamirs of Kyrgyzstan and starts and finishes in Osh. The objective is Lenin Peak, 7,134 m, with Achik-Tash at approximately 3,600 m serving as base camp.
The program combines arrival and initial acclimatization, technical preparation, high-altitude acclimatization, a summit rotation and the return to Osh. Acclimatization includes outings near base camp and toward the slopes of Petrovsky Peak, an ascent of Yukhina Peak at approximately 5,130 m, and a rotation through camps at 5,300 m and approximately 6,100 m. Rest and recovery at lower altitude precede the summit rotation.
Summit timing is provisional and may be adjusted according to the weather, participants' condition and conditions on the route. The program includes a rest day that can also serve as a contingency day for a delayed summit attempt or descent.